Nicosia, the capital of the Mediterranean island of Cyprus, remains the last divided city in Europe and will continue to do so for some time.
Having been split by a brutal invasion of the Turkish army 35 years ago, the centre of Cyprus is marked by a demilitarized ‘Green’ zone and patrolled by UN peacekeepers. The island is separated from east to west, with Nicosia divided down the centre. The Republic of Cyprus in the south is booming and prosperous, while the Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus (TRNC) languishes in poverty, a haven for international criminals, gamblers, drug running and prostitution.
The 1974 invasion was triggered by a desire of Southern Cypriots, having broken free from British rule in 1960, to unify with neighbours Greece, with whom they share a culture and language. This was a threat to the minority populations of Turkish Cypriots who lived on the island but they soon got help from their motherland.
International condemnation of Turkey was swift, and to this day the TRNC is not a legally recognised country. One of the casualties of the invasion was the ghost town of Varosha in Famagusta, which has not changed since the 1970s when it was fenced off by the Turkish military.
The Latest Twist in North and South Cyprus Relations
A recent bureaucratic blunder has meant that the trade ban which was long imposed on the TRNC could now finally be lifted. Southern Cypriots are outraged with their government for letting this happen, a move which could lead to the TRNC being internationally recognised, and are determined that the Turkish army leave their country.
Despite how long ago the conflict happened, efforts at lasting peace talks have repeatedly stumbled. The recent TRNC election result may even mean that the best chance has passed.
The former ‘pro union’ president of the TRNC, Mehmet Ali Talat, has been replaced by Dervish Eroglu who does not believe in the bicommunal federation. While Talat was friendly with South Cyprus president Demetris Christofias with whom he worked to create a solution, Eroglu does not even speak English.
But the biggest obstacle to reunification of north and south Cyprus is the attitudes of the south Cypriot people. In 2004 the Un-backed Annan plan to reunify the island was voted down by Greek Cyriots who remain extremely bitter about the conflict.
There are over one hundred people missing, presumably killed when the Turkish army invaded Cyprus, and no one knows where there bodies are. In fact the Turkish refuse to acknowledge that they even exist, according to an article that first appeared in the Guardian G2 (see sources).
The 1974 Invasion of Cyprus is Still an Open Wound
Given the tragic nature of this situation, it is unsurprising that Greek Cypriots are still nursing an open wound. However, what do they expect the TRNC to do about it? Until now the TRNC has largely been a puppet in the plans of Turkey and Europe. As long as it exists European countries have a convenient excuse with which to bar Turkey from the EU. Meanwhile Turkey continues to populate the North with its citizens and military to create a cultural and strategic dominance.
In reality it is the TRNC which suffers the most. Yes money has flowed into the island as notorious criminals take advantage of its illegal status to enjoy their exile in lap-dancing clubs and casinos. But driving around the TRNC is a depressing experience - this is a poor and hopeless country. Out-of-work men wander the streets in droves and children play sweetly in the street unaware of the lack of opportunities that await them.
North and South Cyprus are Worlds Apart
Southern Nicosia is full of extravagant sports cars, designer shops and high-priced cafes. Before the Euro came along they even had one of the world's strongest currencies.
The closest the TRNC gets to such conspicuous wealth is their fake collection of Dolce and Gabbana clothes, available at all market stalls.
Yet, speaking to local south Cypriots, many have no idea how their neighbours live. A Cypriot who only wanted to be referred to as Christos said: “I’ve heard that they have lots of money in the North because not only did they take our money but now everyone in southern Cyprus goes over to the North to gamble.”
It may be that Cypriots decide that they do not want to reunify after all. The difficulties it presents are numerous, while many tourists actually come specifically to Nicosia to see the divide, or to visit the laid back charms of the TRNC. Without this bizarre arrangement it might it just be another Mediterranean city.
Sources -
Suite 101 - http://woorama.suite101.com/indigenous-cyprus-a28573
The Telegraph - http://www.telegraph.co.uk/expat/expatnews/7027869/British-couple-lose-north-Cyprus-land-fight.html
The Guardian - http://www.guardian.co.uk/world/2004/apr/22/eu.cyprus
Reprint of G2 Guardian article - http://www.lobbyforcyprus.org/press/press2008/gua_150408_missing-persons.htm
BBC News, article on Turkish settlement of TRNC - http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/8623118.stm
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